couture wedding

The Tao of the Drape

Fabrics always have the upper hand. Color and pattern predominate. Each fabric has an individual nature and I like to observe it before cutting. What does it want to become?

I gave this length of pink 4-ply silk to my friend and collaborator Eve Vaterlaus. She came up with the idea to paint an Ocropus which was quite challenging both to paint and also to fashion into a dress.

As is usually the case with hand-painted fabric I drape it right on the form rather than make a pattern first.

I used a fleshy silk georgette as the lining and underskirt after much back and forth over what to choose. It was serendipitous that the tentacle lined up between the upper back bodice and skirt section.

We first pictured the Octopus eye at the top of the fabric, but it seemed to belong in the side front swirl of the skirt.

The blue background fabric was painted by my dear friend Michel Bergonne who passed away last April in Paris.

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In August 2001 we spent my 50th birthday in a castle in France with my dear Viennese friend Marieli Fröhlich and her immediate family and friends. I did the hand beading and sequinning on this net dress which was to be included in an upcoming solo gallery show.

In June of this year my friend actor and playright Anushka Paris Carter who I hadn’t heard from in many years, wrote me to ask if her daughter could wear the Jumeliere dress to her prom. I said Yes, absolutely! and we arranged a visit.

Zoe had seen pictures of her Mom wearing the dress at the Tony’s and also the Emmy Awards and had long fantasized about wearing it herself.

Anushka Paris Carter and husband Andy Paris who was nominated as one of the writers of The Laramie Project

Ballet Dancer Zoe Paris Carter on the night of her high school prom wearing the Jumeliere Dress

I am working on mother of the groom dress for an August wedding. The client wanted a shawl to go over the dress. I hand painted a piece of silk organza and was very unsure about it - until I saw a Cy Twombly painting of roses at the Flagg art Foundation in a show called A Rose Is.

silk cloqué organza with hand-painted silk organza shawl

Cy Twombly Roses at the Flagg Art Foundation

Silk Organza shawl draped

Client trying on shoes to go with mother of the groom dress

I have had this blue linen check fabric in a client’s stash for several years. I didn’t really know what to do with it as it seemed rather dull until I placed the fabric on the bias- I also lined the sleeves and hem with a burnt red linen that matched the stripe.

Blue and red check linen dress

The interfaced linen band at hem gave the dress some body without which it seems rather limp.

linen herringbone suit with white cotton trim and zip jacket

Liberty cotton dress for 1 yr old grand niece Ayla

back of Aylas dress with adjustable bow

3 yr old Charlotte in Greece wearing her birthday dress

Thank you for visiting! Let’s try and keep the world safe and beautiful and free for the children❤️

Looking back on Summer

It was such a busy summer I haven’t really had time to post, so I am just now transitioning into Fall and wrapping up some projects from the months before.

June was wedding month and I made the wedding dress for my beloved niece (and model!)

The wedding was in Cooperstown New York with a beautiful lake as backdrop on a gorgeous late Spring afternoon. Of course everyone danced and celebrated well into the night.

We worked on the dress for a whole year which was a fabulous luxury.

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detail of French Lace (sequined beadwork) on wedding dress

detail of French Lace (sequined beadwork) on wedding dress

Trunk show in May

My trunk show, given by 2 of my dear clients and friends was a big success and a lot of fun.

2 of my new cardigans in ponté knit with appliqués modeled by the 2 hosts

2 of my new cardigans in ponté knit with appliqués modeled by the 2 hosts

Yves Klein blue silk and wool suit

Yves Klein blue silk and wool suit

African Dutch wax-print dress with kimono sleeve

African Dutch wax-print dress with kimono sleeve

New Dance Costumes!!

I was invited to design new costumes for an older Trisha Brown work called “Working Title”. With very little time I used as my starting point fabrics I had already in the studio. After receiving a green light from the 2 artistic directors of the company I felt free to compose the costumes by instinct using as reference everything I learned from working with Trisha and her style of movement and playful spirit.

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At rehearsal

At rehearsal

An Antique Dress

I was asked to work on a dress and revive it as much as possible for inclusion in the beautiful upcoming catalog of Cora Ginsburg

Cora Ginsburg where I worked restoring a dress from the 1800’s

Cora Ginsburg where I worked restoring a dress from the 1800’s

The dress I was asked to restore was a “Fancy dress” most likely worn for a Ball at a private house in England in the 1820’s

I replaced underskirt with tea-dyed silk tafetta, repaired torn net overskirt with silk crepeline and added original silk band to underskirt

I replaced underskirt with tea-dyed silk tafetta, repaired torn net overskirt with silk crepeline and added original silk band to underskirt

Detail of bow on 1820’s dress

Detail of bow on 1820’s dress

In Memoriam

My beloved Father passed away just 10 days after we celebrated his 97 birthday in August. He was able to attend the wedding of his granddaughter and reunite with his 93 year old brother who he hadn’t seen in 20 years. He was my biggest inspiration and fan. A man of boundless heart and imagination. His brother, my uncle passed away just 2 weeks later. we Miss them.



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